I'm just slaying...
Hi there, I just purchased these. One question I would have, is : could this be beneficial o powder days? My stance for pow days is 22,5 and angles are +9 and + 27. Also, would you recommend these for Banked Slaloms and super uneven terrain? Cheers
Just picked up a set! Struggling with IT band pain on the back leg where it attaches at the knee while riding posi/posi on my C4, and I don't think my styrofoam pad system (toe on the front, heel on the back) is helping all that much. Could also just be I need to stretch more and strengthen my glutes since I can only get out on the weekends.
One question I would have, is : could this be beneficial o powder days? My stance for pow days is 22,5 and angles are +9 and + 27. Also, would you recommend these for Banked Slaloms and super uneven terrain?
I'm not totally sure to be perfectly honest... I haven't tried them in real powder yet. They feel good to me for the bits of off piste I have done but I'm using the Butterfly Wing BX Risers on my all mountain boards. Mostly because I like the way they stiffen up the production boards.
It's an excellent question. Hopefully you and other riders will write your feedback here and I'll have an answer when we all come to a consensus!
I'm just slaying...
Hi All...
So I just got my first properly wide carving-oriented snowboard (Kindred Tsitika 168 x 30cm). I also have all new boots and Flow carbon bindings, and Trenched canted risers.
I started snowboarding in 1987, but took a 10+ year hiatus. I'm only getting back into snowboarding because I've always wanted to carve like James but wide boards didn't exist for my size 14 feets.
My question is whether I just go for it with the Canted Risers on my first run on the new board? Or should I try it without the risers to get used to the new wide board?
I don't get many days on the mountain, and I'm not as athletic and spry as I used to be. My goal is to learn carving on the limited runs I get each day before family or lack of conditioning ends my day.
How significant is the change in technique with the Canted Risers? Does it feel natural? Or am I more likely to wipe out, dig a rail, etc...?
Will my decades of snowboarding reflexes kick in to take immediate advantage of the cant and rise?
My prior board is a 168 x 27cm.
Thanks!
@dicynodont I have the canted risers on my Standa Pipeliner 2.0 (275 x 1530mm). It a big board Mae for surf-style carving. I have size 12US and ride F39/R30. No boot out issues and the canted risers were pretty much transparent right away and allow me just a bit more ease with my hip turn on heelside - also allows me to narrow up my stance by 1/2”.
throw them on and have fun making big turns😎
My question is whether I just go for it with the Canted Risers on my first run on the new board? Or should I try it without the risers to get used to the new wide board?
Oh yeah, put them on right away. You're gonna need the clearance for sure with those flippers, and the stance is very comfortable. Enjoy!
I'm just slaying...
@wild-cherry , Hi James, Finaly i start to prepare my C4 for the next season. Now i have a question, the Canted risers, the aloy parts is 2-3mm under the "plastic" part of the riser. When i try to fix the NX2 from last season, it seems that the screws that are deliverd with the Bindings are too short because it seems they goes only 3-4 turns into the alloy material of the riser. What length of screws do you recommend for the NX2 with the Canted risers ? Thank you, Oliver
Hi @oj4u
You should be fine with the stock screws from Flow. That's exactly what I use.
One of two things is happening, probably both. First, the NX2 has a thicker and foamier gasket under the baseplate than other bindings. Even without risers I have to go around the center disc and progressively tighten each screw more than other bindings. Usually two more times around tightening each screw. So, especially if these bindings have been sitting out all summer, just keep tightening them and you will probably get at least another full turn each.
Second, we have experienced some cupping with the Canted Risers. Last season we created the angle on the plastic by cutting from one side only and this tension imbalance led to a small curvature. For 2026 we're cutting half from each side in an effort to eliminate this issue. So, see if you can slide some paper under the riser either near the center (goofy) or at the far ends (regular), this will indicate a small gap caused by the curvature. If you can slide paper under, just let the riser sit mounted between the board and binding somewhere warm for a little while and then tighten up the binding screws again (progressively) until there's no more gap. I suspect this is the primary issue because you wrote "2-3mm" but these are machined precisely to have a 1mm difference in height. Screw pitch on an M6 bolt is 1 turn per mm so you should get an extra full turn or even two once the riser is flat.
Despite this 1mm height difference between the metal interface and the plastic riser, the stock screws should penetrate as much as normal since board inserts are always at least 1mm below the topsheet anyway. This setup with the stock screws has been well tested and proven safe.
Make sure you have a proper posi-drive tool for bindings screws. A #3 Philips will do in a pinch but a #2 Philips is not recommended and is likely to strip your screws before you get to the proper torque.
I'm just slaying...
@wild-cherry Thanks, today i was in my workshop and found 3mm longer screws and i will test if they will fit without touching the board ground. You recomend screw glue for fitting in the risers ? I usaly use Loctite 242 or 243.
You recomend screw glue for fitting in the risers ? I usaly use Loctite 242 or 243.
That's not necessary. I've never needed it. The only time the risers have come loose is when the screws bottom out in the inserts. This only happens on the thinnest boards, we adjusted this too so it won't be a problem for 2026.
(We supplied washers in 2025 to eliminate this issue. I hadn't considered this in the design phase, I just figured we would make them and find the right hardware later, but it turns out that no one makes an M6 in 11mm, so it had to be 12mm with washers. This round we just made the channel 1mm deeper and will supply 10mm fasteners.)
I'm just slaying...
Hello @wild-cherry , i recheck the original Flow screws and i will use them because the ones from my workshop do not have the internal washer attached to the screw 😉
i recheck the original Flow screws and i will use them because the ones from my workshop do not have the internal washer attached to the screw
Ya man, they'll be fine. There's a gap between the metal interface and the plastic riser sure, but there's also a gap between the surface of your topsheet and the first thread on your board inserts. So your stock screws should get the same number of turns as you would without the risers.
This is exactly the same setup I was using last season, it's solid.
I'm just slaying...
Are the risers reversible..meaning can i somehow flip them over if I want to switch from regular to goofy? Or are they purchased for one direction only?
Also @wild-cherry I've got the Flow NX2 Carbon in XL size. Are the risers one size fits all and should I be concerned with any overhang of my bindings over the risers?
@carveaddict75 I have the NX2 Carbon in XL - the toe (metal rail) does overhang the sides of the canted riser by about 1/4" on each side. I had no issues with this setup. Carve Hard!!!
