How much'll the Board cost?

Posted by: @daniel-seppele

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How much'll the Board cost?

$2400 or $2500 CAD plus shipping. 

Jasey sets the pricing now.  The 162s may be cheaper than the 171s, I'm not sure how he wants to price them.  They're quicker to build and use less material so they should come in at $2400.  Still cheaper than Kesslers, wider and better freecarve performance.

@wild-cherry Will there be any 166s? I’ve been thinking if going for the 166 + the canted risers for the extra leverage would be the right way to go… (haven’t pulled the trigger on the risers yet but probably will soon, how long does the pre-order last?)

Posted by: @superfelix

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Will there be any 166s? I’ve been thinking if going for the 166 + the canted risers for the extra leverage would be the right way to go… (haven’t pulled the trigger on the risers yet but probably will soon, how long does the pre-order last?)

No 166s in this batch, but batches will keep coming available through the fall.  Each batch is a unique size now, to keep the production flowing smoothly.  With your new 26.0 boot @superfelix and the hard snow you generally ride, the 166 is an excellent choice! 

Don't know exactly how long the pre-order will last.  Probably until I'm back in stock.  Hopefully not later than October 1st.  (Thanks for the reminder, I need to call my manufacturer today...)  It's a good deal, the shipping alone to Europe is $65 CAD, plus all the extra gear and the free Trenched t-shirt!  I don't make any money on the pre-orders actually, I was expecting to injection mold these for 2026 and bring down my unit cost but the mold was quite expensive so I decided to do one more season of the locally milled UMHW version to perfect the design before I commit.

The 2026 Canted Risers are smaller and lighter, we might do a small run of the original size for the gorillas out there with mondo size 30 and up.  When milling from solid pieces these changes are easy, once we have the mold, changes are near impossible.  Working with a local machinist, the unique prototypes are affordable and fast, and we can discuss changes in person which eliminates any possible miscommunication.  I'd like to get the weight way down but I also want to maintain our 0% breakage rate so I'll need to test options for 40-50 days to know whether they're strong enough.  (Really, I should get a set to @dan in the fall, he's a gear breaker...)

@wild-cherry Hey Cherry! I am 6ft 195 lbs., size 11 foot (us).  i have been boarding for 30 plus years. I have been free ride style fairly aggressive...  just recently starting to focus on carving style.   Ride East coast snow half the time and Colorado (Beaver Creek/Vail) and out west the other half.    I am leaning to towards a c4 162 midstiff.  what do you suggest?

Posted by: @orangebritches

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what do you suggest?

Aggressive rider, 195 lbs with size 11 boots?

This was way easier when we were only making one size...

So it depends @orangebritches...   You're relatively new to carving and you ride a fair bit of ice so the 162 mid would be an excellent choice to get into it.  That board is probably way bigger than what you're used to (don't be fooled by the 162 length, it's got 20cm more effective edge than a standard production board of similar length). 

However, 16 months from now at Beaver Creek you will almost certainly be dragging your boots and wishing you had a wider board like the 171 mid flex.  (I have one G4 168 mid flex in stock, ready to ship.)

There are always trade-offs and no such thing as the perfect board for any one rider (this is why I have so many).   It's definitely easier to recommend the perfect board for a given rider if I know the terrain and conditions on a particular day, the width of the run and the crowding.

I usually suggest taking a quiver building mentality.  Consider buying a smaller softer board first in anticipation of another longer stiffer board in the future.  Or one for icy days out east and another for the slower softer snow in Colorado.  

An advanced or expert carver with size 11 boots at Beaver would definitely want a 171, but the same rider at an intermediate carving level riding East Coast hardpack can get away with a 162 for a couple of seasons at least.

Ultimately the decision is up to the rider, I'm here to guide the decision and make sure everyone understands the factors under consideration.   For example, longer and wider mean more stable but heavier and less nimble.  Stiffer just means faster, wider turns.  A stiffer board also needs extra width because it'll need more angulation to bend it into the same size turn.  Colorado snow has very low water content, it's quite slow and forgiving and the trenches are deeper (so a stiffer, wider board is indicated) whereas East Coast hardpack is very fast with shallow trenches so a narrower softer board will make the same size turns at similar speeds.

@orangebritches fill out the Client Intake Form please for a more precise recommendation: www.carversconnection.com/CIF/

Yeah it really depends how much toe drag you'll tolerate (which I imagine you're VERY familiar with).  Just know that with these longer sidecut radii you really need to angulate the board in order to tighten up the turn.  If you're riding steeps and trying to control your speed through turning, you're going to angulate more... though if you're riding mellow slopes with more open turns, you'll angulate less.  

Also note that with these longer SCR, the tips don't get as wide either... so the waist width could be a bit misleading.  Personally, I think the rear insert & tail width are more indicative of how much you're going to drag (as it's tapered narrower than the nose).  For example, my 166 has a 293WW, rear insert of 296 and my tail is 327.  My 154 Freecarver 6000 is only a 263WW (30mm narrower), rear insert is 278 (18mm narrower) and tail is 319 (only 8mm narrower).  Both work well for me with my mondo 260 (size 8) boots, but are VERY different boards.  IIRC, with my rear foot at +12 deg, I have 4-5mm of underhang on the JJA and about that much overhang on the 6000, but with that tight sidecut I don't need to lay it over as much.  The 6000 is a bit like a party board that carves... I don't really alter the turn shape much (no need to go smaller).  

I should note that I’m riding Vans Verse, which have a relatively large footprint by today’s standards.  The outer is 290mm, so they’re 30 mm larger than my mondo size!  With size 11 Verse you’d be looking at about  10mm of overhang on the 166.  With a more contemporary boot you’d be a bit less than that.

I’ve been riding for over 30 years as well.  I was carving the first time I was on a groomed slope… I started with a little freestyle, but have been more freeride for over 25 years.  I’m no longer in my prime and don’t take the risks that I once did, so my freeride has been REgressing.  I started REALLY carving a couple of years ago and it has been great to see some PROgression again.  

Also, I have high arches, a high instep, and a bit of a mid foot dorsal exotosis (which is apparently common for old timers that wore sorrels with crappy binding straps clamping down).  I use to wear boots that were really too big.  I definitely recommend measuring your actual foot length, as you might be able to size down with the right boots and proper arch support.

You’re definitely going to want some low footprint bindings.  With my underhang on the C4 I can ride my comfy Rome Cleavers and not worry about the heel cup.  You’re not going to have that luxury.  Flux CV LTD might work with the higher heelcup, but you might want to look at the Flow bindings.  They feel like bear traps on my feet, but Cherry and A LOT of carvers swear by them.

Building a carving quiver is a great philosophy… I have a few and another on order.  If you want just one carving board, I might point you to the 166.  SCR aside, I personally like a WW larger than my mondo size (260).  In soft conditions I just can’t lay over my Stranda Shorty or Korua Trenchdigger as much as I’d like.  I also hate both of those boards on ice.  The Korua is chattery as hell and the Stranda is just slow to initiate a turn.  The C4 with the titanal is incredibly smooth on ice, but I just don’t like the speed and/or commitment.  I usually ride the little 6000 for that.  I’ve ordered a 272 WW Kindred Procarve that’ll hopefully be a bit more versatile for me.  I’ll save the C4 for prime conditions… which begs the question: Do I really need double titanal for that?  Perhaps no, but it’s just such a sweet ride.  For the Bigfoot’s, it’ll definitely be more versatile.

Posted by: @board-doctor

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I definitely recommend measuring your actual foot length, as you might be able to size down with the right boots and proper arch support.

You’re definitely going to want some low footprint bindings.

Yes! @orangebritches, heed the doctor's advice!

Most snowboarders are in a "comfort fit" boot and that's fine until they try to carve, and then the extreme forces start to lift the heel and the toes start to drag too.  I thought I was in a "performance fit" boot but managed to downsize a whole cm once I figured it out.

And a rear entry binding will be a huge upgrade for you too!  You can save 15 to 30mm of length, depending on what you're in currently.  That's a bigger difference than the widths of the G4 162 and 171.

@adamwantstocarve where are you in Europe I am in France

@wild-cherry i am in France and i surch a new carving softboots board what is the différence between JJAC4 and G4 

What are the advantages of a wide board? I used to carve with hard boots and narrow boards, and now I'm on a more all-around 262 board. I'm looking for a carving board for Ride Insano 28.5 Mondo boots, and I'm 178 cm tall and weigh 89 kg.

Thank you. 

Hi @budo63,

The only difference between the JJA C4 and the Big Snowboards G4 is the graphics, it's the same board, rebranded.

The advantage of a wide board is simply the ability to carve at high edge angles without dragging your boots in a more relaxed, comfortable and versatile stance than you would have in hard boots. 

For your size and with your hard boot experience , you would want a G4 168 or 171, mid or stiff flex.  Fill out this form to start the process to nail down the best recommendation: www.carversconnection.com/CIF/

@budo6363 it’s not just the width, it’s the whole design ethos.  A lot of commercial boards will have less than a 9m sidecut radius.  You tip the board a couple of degrees and you make a 9m turn radius.  Sadly, the flex of some of these boards doesn’t really respond to increasing edge angle.  They’re really just meant to ride the sidecut, mainly down the fall line.

A freecarving board is meant to turn… and it’s all about the turn.  A 166 C4/G4 has a 12m sidecut.  Tip it over a couple of degrees and you get a 12m turn. You generally can’t really go larger than the SCR.  Now if you want less than a 9m turn, you HAVE to tip it over more than 30 degrees.  Manipulating the turn and CARVING different shapes in the snow is what carving is really about.  At higher edge angles you’re usually digging a deeper trench, so you need more heel/to clearance.  You can do that with increased binding angle, but then you loose some ankle-steering/foot-pedaling which improves early edge engagement.  Hardboots generally have more lateral support than soft boots as well.

I was skeptical… 292 mm sounded more like a tail width than a waist width, but it works.  Once you realize that you’re really tipping this board over ALL THE TIME, you’ll want that width. And with a 12m SCR the underfoot width isn’t as big as you might think.Now having said that, I’m only a mondo 260 boot and that width (underhang) becomes a chore for me on icy hardpack if I’m not digging a deep trench.

There’s SO MUCH effective edge for support. It’s really confidence inspiring.  I’ve dragged my butt a few times and get WAY more compliments on my riding and questions about the board.

Another thing to note is that with a lot of Effective Edge, you really want a longer SCR so that you don’t have a ridiculous amount of sidecut depth.  

At higher edge angles the turn shape is actually more dependent on the flex than the sidecut.  If you think of the extreme case with the edge angle at 90 degrees (boundary condition), the board is actually on the nose & tail contact points, with the waist rising off of the ground.  With the waist rising out of the snow, the amount of grip diminishes.  I notice this on my Jones 6000… fun board… but too much edging on ice and it just slides out.  It’ll be carving along and all of a sudden it begins to loose grip right when you need it.