Hello, this question may be directed more directly at James but would love other people's opinions as well! I your interface video you talked about inward canting on the NX2 bindings. How much benefit do you find with that and can you make an instructional video or sell the rubber with adhesive or something to help us customize our bindings as well! You have already done so much to help us it feels wrong to ask for more. We appreciate all that you do James and Jasey!
I’ve used Tognar stuff in my boots, but I don't know how well it would stand up on bindings?
https://www.tognar.com/ski-boot-fitting/?page=1
One-sided sticky rubber or plastic might do better.
The Trenched boot stiffeners come with some foam. @wild-cherry , it’d be great to get some of these things in the storefront… but it might be tough to break even on it.
Big White, BC, Canada
Board doctor thanks for the response! i think I threw that foam out... Bad decision lol! I didn't know what to do with it I figure it was for hot spots caused by the boot stiffeners but they were comfortable to me! I don't mind paying more for the right stuff In the storefront for James to break even or make a little cash as long as it's worth it performance wise!
I bought a 5 mm thick rubber mudflap (like for a car) to experiment with toe/heel lift last season. To secure it I just used some super glue. I guess you can use it to create cant as well with this technique, I just didn't need to because both the binding footbeds and my boots had inward canting.
I cut the rubber to size using a carpet knife and stencils made out of paper.
Dreaming about soft snow
How much benefit do you find with that and can you make an instructional video or sell the rubber with adhesive or something to help us customize our bindings as well!
I like a few degrees of inward canting in combination with some back foot heel lift and front foot toe lift. How much benefit maybe depends on the rider. I've been carving in posi posi stances since the early 90s, my hips are flexible in the right way and the position feels natural. So I can ride with or without them, but i definitely prefer them over flat. Others may have started later and have trouble flexing properly into a good position. For these carvers, Trenched Canted Risers can be a game changer.
To steal a concept from @riotsupercarver, the steeper your stance angles the more lift you need, the lower the angles the more cant is recommended. So for soft boot carving stances like 30/15 the combination is perfect, inward canting only for duck stances and lift only for hardboot stances.
I'm not going to market the rubber, it's just something I happened to have lying around from my dirtbag climbing days. I can send you some @longday, but the Trenched Canted Riser in combination with a binding that has some inward cant in the footbed is a better solution. Raising the boot inside the binding weakens the boot/binding interface and it can be a bit sloppy. I've used strips of cork flooring too, for testing before I glue it down. Cork is dense enough with some give and biodegradable too so it's perfect for testing because I sometimes forget to pick it up out the binding when I unstrap at the lift...
The bootfitter's foam i ship with the stiffeners is not dense enough for lifting and canting. I used it to soften the edges around the rubber, fill some gaps and create a ramp of sorts (the rubber doesn't grind well, it just melts). I buy this stuff in sheets from an orthopedic supply store, spray one side with adhesive and roll out some double sided tape over it. Last year I experimented with some other products but I couldn't find anything high density and high quality that comes with a sticky back.
It so happens someone else asked on IG last week for some DIY instructions for the same custom cant and lift, so I have the photos I took for him:
The first one is a Flux binding with a flat base so I had to layer the rubber. This is a right, front foot. Note that there is zero lift under the inside heel and 4mm at the outside of the heel. 4mm at the big toe and 8mm at the small toe. I basically created a plane for my boot to sit on. These were complicated because the footbed itself is in three pieces and the middle one needs to fold out of the way to access the screws. So I have five custom cut pieces of rubber and three pieces of foam on this one. I used contact cement so there was some drying time between layers. This one took a few hours, I don't recommend doing this on Flux bindings.
The second photo is the footbeds from a set of Flow NX2s. This footbed already has 2 degrees of inward cant so I only had to add the lift. The closer one is the back foot, there's no ramp there because my boot has a gap under the arch between where the heel touches and the forefoot starts to touch down so it wasn't needed. The front lift piece has a bit of a ramp that I cut in with a sharp utility knife. A longer and smoother ramp would have been better but it was a bit of a last minute rough job. I wasn't expecting that people would be looking at it so closely on the internet...
I'm just slaying...
@wild-cherry thank you for that detailed response! So helpful as always! I am so excited for my 168 A2! I have your canted risers installed and nx2 bindings that you are saying already has 2 degrees of inward cant. Maybe I'll ride it like this and see how it feels before making any modifications!?
I have your canted risers installed and nx2 bindings that you are saying already has 2 degrees of inward cant. Maybe I'll ride it like this and see how it feels before making any modifications!?
Yeah, this is the primo setup for a G Series board. Same as I ride.
I'm just slaying...
