Centered between the edges. James covers this in the interface video, or maybe the binding video. sorry I'm not much help. 

Posted by: @slarverjerry

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Do you center the boot on the board or do you center the front of your boot and the rear heel cup on your board?

Center the boot and binding together to equalize the overhang or underhang toe and heel.  If you use a rear entry binding then the boot will also be centered when you do this.

This discussion could get quite technical but this method is simple and very close to where you would end up anyway.

I'll take a little bias towards the toes sometimes because toe drag is easier to deal with whereas heel drag (or heelcup drag) can be more catastrophic.  I'm talking a few millimeters.

Posted by: @wild-cherry

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I'll take a little bias towards the toes sometimes because toe drag is easier to deal with whereas heel drag (or heelcup drag) can be more catastrophic.  I'm talking a few millimeters.

Wasn’t there also a discussion in one of the threads that since the leg ”attaches” to the foot at the heel, and the back foot is angled more across the board and towards the waist of the board, having the back foot slightly biased towards the toe side makes for a more stable platform? The reasoning was that when centering the boot on the board you’re basically very slightly putting your back foot behind you and your front foot in front of you when you center like that

Its all very marginal and I seriously doubt I would feel any difference at all. 

I center my boot on the board without thinking about any of the above. 

I try to centre the boot, but if I need to I’ll put my toes a bit closer to the edge.  You mostly weight your foot on the heel & ball (not really your toes), so you get similar leverage, with less heelcup drag.  Perhaps I should deliberately go further.

There are some people that go for more heel overhang, but I presume they’re not angulating the board as much on the heelside. (Ie not really carving).

Posted by: @superfelix

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having the back foot slightly biased towards the toe side makes for a more stable platform?

This is true.

But the back toes are closest to the narrowest part of the board so there's a trade off (as usual).

Posted by: @superfelix

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Its all very marginal and I seriously doubt I would feel any difference at all. 

This is also kinda true...

But I have experienced catastrophic boot out on the heelside on some boards where the angular momentum keeps me spinning until I'm on my back hurling down the hill head first with no control.  At that point I'll offset to toeside a little...  (I sold that board though, and now I ride with some underhang so at least I can dig in my heel edge and slow down when this happens.)

Posted by: @board-doctor

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There are some people that go for more heel overhang, but I presume they’re not angulating the board as much on the heelside. (Ie not really carving).

Have you talked with anyone that deliberately go for heelside overhang or is it just something you've observed? Because I've seen it lots, and many that mount bindings for rental seem to bias for overhang on the heelside, but I've always just chalked it up to laziness/inattentiveness/not caring. I'm just curious what the potential benefit would be. 

Because even if we disregard dragging the heelcup when riding I find heelside overhang to be super annoying when you skate as I would catch my toes on the heelcup...

So if I center my boot on my board my heel cup will overhang more than the toe side of my boot by quite a bit.  Is that what i should do?  Or should I center the toe of my boot with the rear of my binding heel cup on my board? 

@superfelix I’ve seen the heel bias recommendation on the snowboardingforum.com because “you’re more likely to drag your toes”.  I presume these are newbies that don't really carve heelside.

@slarverjerry Does the heel cup just overhang more or is it really limiting the angle on edge?  If it’s really bad, you might consider a binding with a smaller, higher, or even no heelcup.

Posted by: @slarverjerry

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So if I center my boot on my board my heel cup will overhang more than the toe side of my boot by quite a bit.  Is that what i should do?  Or should I center the toe of my boot with the rear of my binding heel cup on my board? 

Unless and until you're booting out, either way is fine.  If you're carving and suddenly find yourself on your ass, offset towards the toes a bit more and/or get a lower profile binding as @board-doctor recommended. 

If you're in the smallest boot your can comfortably ride (performance fit) and a rear entry or low profile binding and you're still struggling with boot drag, congratulations, you're finally carving!  Now you need a wider board and/or risers...

Okay thanks

@slarverjerry  I started carving 7 years ago when I bought my first Donek Flux with a 281mm waist. With my size 12 boot I had to go to higher binding angles and add a riser. As I got better at getting the board to high carving angles I had to increase my binding so I have zero boot overhang. I currently ride at F39/R30 and have zero toe/heel drag. 
I bought a JJA C4 from James and that is a bit wider, 294mm, so in “theory” I can get the board to 90 degrees and not have an issue - but I’m not that good. 
I would try higher binding angles and see if that works for you - in theory it is better for hip rotation on heelside. The other solution is buy wide carving boards. 

Posted by: @rocketman69

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@slarverjerry  I started carving 7 years ago when I bought my first Donek Flux with a 281mm waist. With my size 12 boot I had to go to higher binding angles and add a riser. As I got better at getting the board to high carving angles I had to increase my binding so I have zero boot overhang. I currently ride at F39/R30 and have zero toe/heel drag. 
I bought a JJA C4 from James and that is a bit wider, 294mm, so in “theory” I can get the board to 90 degrees and not have an issue - but I’m not that good. 
I would try higher binding angles and see if that works for you - in theory it is better for hip rotation on heelside. The other solution is buy wide carving boards. 

@rocketman69 I'm in a similar boat as you albeit i'm a carver newbie.  Size 12 boots and I have a G4 168 midflex on the way!  Have a new Stranda Bowlrider 2.0 165W too!

Are you riding with the same high positive angles on your C4 too? or did you find you didn't need to with the extra width?

My G4 and Bowlrider have waists of 296mm and 270 respectively.  I bought the Trenched riser too.  Seems like if i really want to carve with high edge angle on the Bowlrider I might need to go with similar high positive angles as you, and likely less so with the G4?

I'm trying to figure out what angles I should start with and how to progress.

@carveaddict75 Hi! It's funny how guys with size 9 boots don't appreciate how much bigger their options are for buying a carving board. As a size 12 boot rider, I always have used risers with posi-posi stance and started off chasing power and jumping (1998 season) and rode with angles 0f 21/9 and had lots of toe/heel overhang.  As I got better at turns and booting out - I increased my angles to 27/15.

In March of 2017 I got to demo a couple Donek softboot carving boards with by riding buddy and found that I had to increase my angles to 30/21. And that lead to me getting my first Donek Flux custom board from Sean in April! I bumped my angles up to 33/24 and got the Donek riser plates and started my carving journey in 2018 season.

In 2021 I started to play with hard boot carving and got a custom 175 Flux from Donek with a 235mm waist and was able to get high edge angles with 39/30 angles and a 19.5" stance width. I've been riding 39/30 angles on all my softboot boards for a few seasons and loving it.

For this season, on by C4 (166/stiff) I just mounted a set Jame's canted risers with my FLOW NX2 Carbon bindings - I set the angles so that I have zero boot overhang (K2 Traxis w/Solution inner boots (from Remind) and Trenched Boot Straps) - easy with the Trenched canted rise as the rotate without fixed increments. I think the angles look like ~35/32 - and I also narrowed my stance ~20.5". I just mounted all my other carving boards - they all have riser plates, FLOW NX2 bindings and are set at 39/30

So, I have increased my boot angles and reduced my stance width over several years since I started focusing on carving. Good luck in your carving this season, definitely experiment with high boot angles this season & it's almost time for my season to start in Colorado!!

Check out my YouTube channel, I'm @edge2edge417 (5/3/2019 GK Fire Bowl-Drifter). Green/Blue runs at Loveland - more super-G style of carving - but very high-g turns is what motives me to keep pushing and refining my technique.